First it was a premonition. Then a breeze of craziness. A 2%-possibility that turned into 100%-reality. It feels like destiny, magic, like love.
This blog is to freeze this special period. To give room to our new-won Latino-coloured creativity. And - above all - to let you be part of it.
Eager to read your juicy comments! / Faites nous part de vos remarques ou blagues, lachez-vous! / Vse neumnosti dobrodošle!
P & T
Friday, February 22, 2013
Quelques instantanés avec les parents Mila! dec2012-janv2013
Sur la cote uruguayenne, apres etre passé par le béton de Punta del Este, nous faisons un stop a José Ignacio, charmante petite station balnéaire balayée par les rouleaux de l Atlantique. La famille en mode Freres Dalton!
A la playa a Punta del Diablo, la Maman y su hijo.
On dirait un scene de "Camping" avec Dubosc en tongs, manque que le slibard et le pack de bieres.
Enfin on y etait drolement bien, des grandes et larges plages desertes, une végétation semblable aux Landes.
Temps couvert mais on a tous aimé le charme désuet de La Pedrera...et surtout son petit resto bien bon. La famille en mode créatif. On y retournera
Papa Nouël est passé a Buenos Aires! bon pas a la date prévue certes mais c´etait plus pratique comme cela. Vous noterez l´arbre de Noel tendance minimaliste slovene.
El Obrero dans le quartier déglingué de la Boca. Et bien on y a tres bien bouffé et pour pas cher. Faut dire qu´on a failli louper la résa apres avoir traversé toute la ville puis s´etre risqué a un raccourci a travers une splendide "villa" (favela argentine) mais ca valait le coup. La carte des vins écrite a la craie, faites votre choix : un Malbec de Mendoza ou un Torrontes de cafayate?
El Obrero c´est le BODEGON typique de Buenos Aires, un peu l´équivalent du Bistrot parigo. Des générations d ímmigrés s´y sont succedées et on retrouve aux murs l´hisoire de la famille, de la ville, du foot. Le sifón d´eau gazeuse sur la table est un incontournable. Le Mozo qui vous est sert est plus ou moins afable et vous sert quand il veut/peut, et n´imaginez pas un instant vous adressez a un de ses collegues, il y a des regles a respecter
Pour la digestion direction Caminito, le quartier carte postale de La Boca. C´est surprenant comment ces 3 rues bariolées de maison en tole ondulées se sont converties en un lieu hautement touristique de la capitale portegne. Franchement c´est attrape touriste et pas tres authentique mais il faut avouer que le quartier autour lui est bien resté HardCore, facon le quartier de la gare St Charles a Marseille avant travaux. Mais la plupart des touristes n´iront pas. Et le fameux stade Bombonera impressionne par sa verticalité...El Diego y a joué une bonne partie de sa carriere.
On a tout de meme un pote a Boca, c est Grum, le grand artiste d origine slovene, il nous a accueilli gentiment dans son Covento pour une visite guidée de son musée.
Voila ca c´est la Boca facon Harlem
Et ca le Caminito avec un drapeau slovene au balcon, tres bon ca.
Le Bus ou le mode de transport essentiel. Il y en a partout, meme trop, neanmoins vous l´attendrez toujours longtemps. L´argentin, tres bizarement, fait et respecte la queue en attendant son bus meme si celles ci peuvent mesurer des centaines de metres. Savoir trouver le bon arret est devenu un sport national et savoir lire le guide des stations juste impossible. Les chauffeurs sont de veritables chauffards et vous brinquebalent en permanence. Mais enfin on s y fait, tout comme la machine a pieces de monnaie qui vous fait poireauter sur le bitume en attendant que Mémé fasse l´appoint.
Maman et papa en reconnaissance du terrain
L´Asado, ou faire un asado comme on fait un bbq chez nous. Une veritable activité sociale. La parilla est le bbq en lui meme permettant par un systeme de poulie une cuisson a feu lente de toute beauté. La cuisson dure presque 3heures mais le résultat est unique. Le mythe devient réalité. Et ils bouffent absolument TOUT sur la vache, le cochon ou l agneau. Les cortes (coupes) sont differentes et permettent de mieux apprécier certaines parties de notre amie la vache. Si vous ajoutez a cela un prix en regle generale 3 fois moins elevé qu au pays de José Bové vous comprendrez mieux pourquoi chaque semaine vous etes invité a un asado.
La Papa en plein action, sur notre terrasse le soir de Noel, en train de retirer les "chorizo" ou grosse merguez persillée. A deguster avec un bon Blend (Malbec+Cabernet sauvignon).
Maman triture la parilla qui est un veritable bbq de competition.
Les morceaux que l´on préfere : Tira de asado, Ojo de Bife, Lomo, Cuadril, Ternera, morcilla, chinchulines, mollejas.
Les plus vieux wagons du metro de BA, et pour cause ils ont + de 100 ans!! et vont bientot etre retirés de la circulation..On s´en doutait mais on adore le mobilier en bois, l´ouverture des portes a la mano, les vieux miroirs, ampoules et ornementations de la belle Epoque. Ah oui les nouveaux wagons sont chinois et ont été construits en un temps record pour Cristina la loca.
La ultima noche : cena tango en el café de los Angelitos.
Tres beau lieu de la nuit portegne que la café de los angelitos, offrant un tres bon diner et un superbe show de tango au son du Bondéon (accordéon)
Oh dis donc elle belle la petite blonde a gauche. C´est qui le DSK a droite?
Les musiciens dans leur petite case et le show sur la scene. Une mise en scene et un tango exceptionnels.
L´orchestre de tango, tout y est.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Jesuits, Germans and us
While others shake their bodies to samba rhythms in Rio, we opt for something more original: Carnaval in Cordoba. The 2nd largest city is Argentina is known as a Jesuit jewel, dating back to the middle of the 16th century. As the craddle of the Argentine university. As a "shelter" for Germans with a dubious role in the Second World War. As a cultural Mecca. As a nest of condors flying all around. As a holiday destination for nature lovers, addicted to its Sierras (mountain chain) and 1001 possibilities for sport and adventure. An adrenaline rush is guaranteed.
Day 1: Culture
Day 3: Adventure
Day 1: Culture
The main square - Plaza San Martin - with its Cathedral and funky sky.
Top attraction: Manzana Jesuitica, a square covered by Jesuits origins in Argentina. It was from here on that they spread across the country.
University and its student.
... its garden ...
... a church that wants to be a ship ...
In Cordoba everything is German, not Argentine (feel like having some Spätzle?)
Day 2: Sports
Next destination: La Cumbre, in the middle of Sierras de Cordoba (mind the mountain background!). Bike exploration between the fields.
A visit at our friend Andy's Aeroclub (Andy is the Argentine importer of Slovene Pipistrel planes). Skydiving competition. We only look :)
Day 3: Adventure
At Cuchi Coral, the best spot in Argentina for paragliding.
Oh my legs so high ...
Mami, look at me! :)
A well-deserved rest at Rio Colorado.
Almost as if in Rio de Janeiro.
Day 4: Nature
Up at Cerro Uritorco in record 2 hours.
At the top of Cerro Uritorco, the spot where UFOs land in Argentina.
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
New year, new garden
Mission accomplished: at the turn of the year, our hand-made "huerta" (potager, vrt) blossomed out fully. First tomato is born. Basil is blooming. Baby plants are popping up. All against the background of pink geraniums, bi-coulour hibiscus, ever higher orange, olive and laurel trees, Magnolia popping its first buds and jasmine spreading its sexy smell all over the terrace ...
Voila a short photo report of the good work done:
Voila a short photo report of the good work done:
The proud gardner.
Geraniums having fun in the sun.
Jasmine perfuming our summer lunches.
Two newly added "huertas". Hand-made, hand-painted.
A dance of 3 giant basils and 2 baby chilis.
Our first tomato :) Pass by for a salad in a week.
Kale & bok choy to accompany our fish.
Baby plants popping up.
Monday, December 31, 2012
Miss Argentina (it's a horse!)
It's not easy to be an Argentine horse. The list of criteria to fulfill is much longer than the 90-60-90 for top models, all the more so when it comes to polo. How many kilos? Thin legs? Sharp ears? Shiny eyes? Long neck? Straight knees? Strong legs? A quick step? A well balanced gallop? Not too passionate a character?
Polo is impressive. Its numbers (at least 50 top horses per player) and speed (like a mercedes) are well beyond imagination. Even for "I couldn't care less about horses" like Petra, it's a WAU-experience. Campeonato Argentino Abierto de Polo is the place to be. People dress up as if for opera. Behave as if in Punta del Este. Shout as if in a football match. Drink champagne as if it was NY's eve. Polo is elegantly moderate and wildly passionate at the same time. It feels like going to the very depth of the Argentinian soul. Voila some proofs:
As a point of comparison two European newcomers:
Friday, December 28, 2012
Somebody said Christmas?
A riddle:
How do you know that somebody is well integrated in Argentina?
(Right reply: When their holiday choise is but one: Uruguay.)
(Alternative reply: When they start to live for long weekends.)
And so we hit the road (well, the sky) on December 22. Two "Argentines" + papa & mama Mila.
Zero Christmas feeling in the air.
No roasted duck, just grilled fish.
No snowflakes, just white seagulls.
No Christmas tree, just palm trees.
No woolen cap, just a straw sombrero.
No long sleeves, just a liter of sun bloc lotion on the arms.
No heating, just a lot of air conditioning.
We landed at Montevideo airport and faced the first Latino battle - with AVIS, refusing Mastercard assurance. Mind you, in South America, you're always the looser. No argument counts. No paper. No statute. Just some phantom unwritten rules. But hey, the sun shines, the road is long, don't-worry-be-happy.
The first stop: Piriapolis. Just as surrealist as Fritz Lang's Metropolis. It was Uruguay's first seaside resort. Back in 1890. Mr Piria got dazzled by ... France! Inspired by Biarritz's seafront promenade and by Luis XIV's castles, he decided to build an Uruguayan replica. Smart as he was, he knew that Uruguayan tourism would depend on the masses of frustrated Argentines, tired of the ugly Rio de la Plata and hungry for some blue blue sea. He constructed a 900-room Hotel Argentino, which today seems like a block of lonesome luxury, while Argentine masses sunbathe in Punta del Este.
We followed the trend and set off in the eastwards direction. Punta del Este is a legend. The place to be. The realisation of your ultimate dreams. Lying on its beach gives you the aura of importance. You see and are seen. A bit like Cannes or Antibes. Jewelery and high heels on the beach. Forget flip flops and the desire to relax. Skyscrapers pop up like mushrooms after the rain. Uruguay is getting ready for the high season. In January, Buenos Aires empties up.
Next stop: a much more humble and charming José Ignacio. A "boutique" version of the neighbouring Punta del Este. Small hotels, small restaurants, few people. Much more to our taste. Plus, it has a lighthouse where kind army lets you climb up and enjoy the bird's view. "I feel like coming back," says Tom.
Final destination: Punta del Diablo, where we spend 3 nights (when you live in Argentina, you learn to call a 3-day weekend "holidays"). It's just a stone's throw away from the Brasilian border. No samba and caipi though. Just a lot of wooden huts, peace and calm. It used to be a destination for hippies but now they prefer Cabo Polonio. Normal people like us are welcome. Beaches are long and the waves high.
Mother & son cautiously waiting for the next wave. Watch out!
Popart holidays.
Christmas perspective.
Too many waves, all boats at rest, only frozen fish tonight.
The leftovers of what used to be a hippie destination.
Best Uruguayan architecture in our hands.
Wind & waves.
Christmas dinner. Where's the duck? :)
Last day: After three days of sun and heat, we deserved a splash of rain to cool off. Storms brought out the best colours on the Uruguayan sky, which contrasted with the greenness of the vaaaaaaast meadows. If Brasil is joyful and Argentina chaotic, Uruguay is flat. Very flat. Hardly any 50m hill around. But the cows, ducks and sheep are happy.
A photo stop along the road to Pedrera. Nobody around but a flock of lonesome animals.
Mila Family in full action.
Not a rare feeling in South America: it's you and the world.
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